On a relatively small island that measures six kilometres long and three kilometres wide at its widest point, you might wonder how Capri and Anacapri can be a world apart. You might also question why a day on the island leaves many tourists disillusioned because it was so busy, so expensive, so rushed.
Unless you have stayed on Capri for 2-3 days, it is impossible to know the beauty of the island and understand that it is a walker’s paradise. One of my favourite maps (and I do love maps) is of the island with all of the walking trails marked. They are spectacular with many of them devoid of tourists.
As a daytripper, as soon as you arrive at Marina Grande you are surrounded by Blue Grotto promotors, Capri’s infamous experience. Typically you board another jampacked boat to ferry to the Blue Grotto and sit for 3-4 hours with maybe 20 other boats before it’s your turn to climb into a four person dinghy for five minutes inside the Blue Grotto. Honestly? Despite the vibrant blue water, it’s really not worth it.
And if you wisely say no to the Blue Grotto, you stand in a ridiculously long queue to catch the funicular from the Marina up the hill to Capri, not realising that the ticket office is further up the road and you need to go to that queue first.
Exit the funicular and you are in the world famous Piazzetta with the “see and be seen crowd”, frightfully expensive drinks and shops that always scare me when there is a person guarding the door.
The villagy vibe of Anacapri
Separated from Capri by a steep, winding road that starts at Marina Grande, Anacapri covers the western half of the island. Perched high above the sea, its name - from the Greek anas, “above”, literally means above Capri. It is the highest part of the island, once home to mountaineers and farmers.
For the last ten years the Ciao Italy Amalfi Coast tour has included three nights in Anacapri and I am always so excited to return.
Six best things to do
Circumnavigate 17 kilometres around Capri in a private, wooden gozzo boat. What you see is astounding as the skilled skipper navigates the boat inside caves and grottoes to show you incredible formations and colourful coral as well as crystal clear water to swim in.
Walk from Anacapri down to the Blue Grotto to meet Il Sentiero dei Fortini - the Path of the Forts. The five kilometre walk leads you along the edge of the island through mediterranean shrubland, sculpted rocky promontories and deep inlets of turquoise water to the Punta Carena Lighthouse, Italy’s second biggest lighthouse. Along the way you reach three ancient military posts - Orrico, Pino and Mesola. Their purpose was for spotting approaching enemies and defending the island, originally built by the English in 1806 and later reinforced by the French. They stand on the sites of pre-existing watchtowers built for protection against the Saracen raids that long afflicted the island from the 9th century onwards.
In 1998 Anacapri municipality began a restoration project of the ancient forts and the paths linking them. Along the way are ceramic tiles attached to the rocks with information about local flora and fauna.
Take the chairlift from the village square of Anacapri to the top of Monte Solaro. In just 13 minutes, you’ll soar up to 589 metres, the highest point on Capri, with your feet dangling over vineyards, gardens and forests in complete silence. Anacapri becomes a white mosaic of tiny houses that is even more magnificent on the return journey. At the top there is a bar and more breathtaking views including the Faraglioni. First built in 1952 by engineer Uliscia, the chairlift was refurbished in 1999.
Visit Villa San Michele in the heart of Anacapri. Axel Munthe, the Swedish doctor and writer, wanted a house “to open to sun and wind and the voice of the sea, like a Greek temple and light, light, light everywhere!” Between 1897 and 1900, he realised his dream and built his villa 327 metres above sea level on the spot where there was once an Imperial Roman Villa and a Medieval chapel dedicated to Saint Michael. The surrounding gardens are lush with mediterranean flora and encircled by a white, trellis covered colonnade. As you stroll through the terraced gardens of cypress, lemon and wisteria the view over the Gulf of Naples is unforgettable.
The story of the villa’s construction is told by Munthe in his best selling book, “The Story of San Michele”, one of the most widely translated books in the world. Today, Villa San Michele is a museum open to the public.
Take the Pizzolunga path to Arco Naturale - Natural Arch, before heading down steps to the Cave of Matermania. From here the path is relatively easy and shaded and offers fantastic views all the way to the famous Faraglioni rocks, the three towering rock formations that rise dramatically from the Mediterranean sea. It is one of the most picturesque walks in the world with surprisingly very few tourists.
Beautiful boutiques, artisan shops and restaurants line the pedestrian only streets of Anacapri. Not to be missed is La Casa del Sandalo where Antonio Viva began making hand-made leather Caprese sandals back in 1958. The tradition is now carried on by his son Antonino. Everything is customizable, hand-made and made on the spot. I find it very hard to resist the beautiful hand-made linen dresses in stunning fabrics that I never get tired of.
Despite the crazy number of tourists who visit this beautiful island, it is possible to find your quiet place amidst nature without anyone around, which is something most daytrippers would find hard to believe when they arrive in the bustling Marina Grande.
Next Matera / Amalfi Coast tour 2nd to 16th May
Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.
Deb