In the Bay of Naples in the central Tyrrhenian Sea, fifty minutes by ferry from Naples, is the volcanic island of Ischia.

For a few years now I have viewed it from afar whilst staying on Capri and visiting Procida, so a four day break over Easter was a perfect opportunity to explore with my son, Sam, and his girlfriend Weronika. We were enchanted from the moment we stepped ashore at Ischia Porto which is the main town. The island is divided into six municipalities with a total population around 64,000.

By comparison with Capri, which is 10.4 square kilometres with a coastline of 17 kilometres, Ischia is 64 square kilometres with a coastline of 34 kilometres. The island is almost entirely mountainous due to its volcanic origins. In fact, Ischia is the top of a large submerged volcano which is Mount Epomeo, standing 789 metres tall.

The largest island in the Bay of Naples has a rich and turbulent history spanning over 2,500 years. Known in antiquity as Pithekoussai, it is famously regarded as the first Greek colony in the western Mediterranean. The Greeks settled around 770-760 BC, creating a major centre for ironworking and pottery, trading with the Near East, North Africa and the Italian mainland.

There has always been volcanic upheaval with frequent eruptions and earthquakes. The town of Casamicciola was nearly destroyed by a devastating earthquake in 1883, which killed 1,784 people that amounted to almost a third of Ischia’s entire population.

The Italian word for “total ruin” or “shambles” is casamicciola, a term that became part of Italy’s vocabulary after the earthquake of 1883.

In August 2017 another violent sequence of shakes exploded in the district of Casamicciola.

More recently in 2022, a cloudburst dumped 126-176mm of rain in just a few hours. This saturated the volcanic soil on the slopes of Mount Epomeo, causing it to lose stability. A massive flow of mud, rock and debris roared down the mountain at speeds of up to 20 metres per second and struck the town of Casamicciola Terme while residents were sleeping at 5:00am. Sadly, twelve people lost their lives, dozens of buildings were destroyed and hundreds of residents were displaced.

Following the tragedy, the Italian government and the European Investment Bank launched a massive one billion euro reconstruction project.

The Grand Tour was the ultimate “gap year” for the European elite which began in the mid 17th century through to the mid 19th century. The goal wasn’t just vacationing; it was about polishing the soul. It was about education, turning book learning about the Roman Empire into a physical reality; it was the eBay of the 18th century because travellers bought ancient statues and Renaissance paintings, and it was networking with other powerful families across Europe.

Rome, Florence and Venice were a given, but islands like Ischia and Capri began appearing on the map in the 1700s with the discovery of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Capri became the playground for the international elite, but Ischia maintained a more authentic and rural reputation throughout the Grand Tour era. It was where travellers went to escape the crowds of Naples, ride donkeys through vineyards, and seek a more rustic experience.

Ischia’s biggest drawcard is its thermal parks that attract wellness and spa enthusiasts. The island is enriched with 29 hydrothermal basins producing more than 100 springs, each different in temperature and chemical composition, and all featuring similar healing properties against a wide variety of ailments.

Ischia is known as “The Green Island” (L’Isola Verde), so the hikers come to climb Mount Epomeo and botanical lovers come to visit the world famous La Mortella Gardens.

The island is a popular holiday destination for Italian families, especially from Naples and Rome. In August, when Italians take their holidays, Ischia is almost entirely taken over by Italians.

You know I can’t resist an e-bike adventure day, so what better place than a mountainous island. Feeling confident we would circumnavigate the entire island, we were surprised that we ran out of time, perhaps not helped by a deliciously indulgent seaside lunch.

The Aragon Castle of Ischia was begging to be explored. In 1441 Alfonso the Magnificent captured the island. He connected the iconic Aragonese Castle to the main island via a stone bridge and fortified it, turning it into a nearly impregnable citadel that could accommodate the entire population during pirate raids.

The most splendid period for the castle was at the end of the 16th century, when the island hosted 1892 families. Around 1750, once the danger of the pirates was over, the inhabitants looked for more comfortable dwellings on the island of Ischia. In 1823, Ferdinand, King of Naples, expelled the last 30 inhabitants and transformed the castle into a prison for those doing life.

Today, the island within an island is privately owned. There is a museum, a wonderful bookshop with artisan made gifts, a cafe with wickedly tempting pastries, a hotel in the converted cells of the former 16th century convent, a very classy restaurant, a small vineyard and vegetable gardens! Not to mention stunning views over the Bay of Naples.

Local recommendations led us to quite possibly the most exclusive, picturesque village of Ischia called Sant Angelo that is completely pedestrianised. The elegant piazzetta filled with boutique shops, art galleries and restaurants overlooks the marina. Its most famous feature is “La Torre”, a massive volcanic rock connected to the mainland by a narrow sandy isthmus. And here we sat at the edge of the sea in the warm spring sunshine, enjoying seafood from the sea onto our plate, in our own corner of paradise.

To be honest, we ran out of time, leaving much to be explored still. Ischia will definitely be a place to be added to future Ciao Italy tours!

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb