That Sicily Feeling

Thrilling adventures await in Sicily

Sun-kissed Sicily is a melting pot of cultures with a fascinating history. It is the biggest island in the mediterranean and the biggest of Italy’s twenty regions, separated from the mainland by a twenty minute ferry ride across the Messina Strait.

To understand Sicily is to understand its history. In the 8th century BC, Sicily was colonised by the Greeks seeking new lands and trade routes. A brilliant culture emerged, with colonies at Giardini-Naxos, Catania, Syracuse, Agrigento and Selinunte. Fabulous temples and cities were built, rivalled by the Phoenicians who occupied the west of the island.

In the 3rd century BC the island attracted the attention of a rising power - the Romans - who founded their first province there in 241BC. Over the next 600 years they destroyed the Greek and Phoenician civilizations and Romanized the island. Then, during the time of Roman decline in the 5th century AD, the island was swept through and invaded by Goths and Vandals.

They were replaced by the Byzantines from Constantinople, who lasted for 300 years, until the arrival of the Arabs in the late eighth century AD. The Arabs brought revival to the island, making it tempting for the Normans who pushed into Sicily in 1061, but they ruled for little more than a century.

By the 14th century Sicily was controlled by the Spanish which lasted for 400 years, but the island became a neglected backwater plundered and bypassed by the Renaissance. The 19th century changed history again with the unification of Italy in 1861. However, enthusiasm from Giuseppe Garibaldi defeating the ruling Bourbons didn’t last long because the time was ripe for the emergence of the Mafia and a quarter of the population of Sicily emigrated, mainly to America.

Perhaps the briefest history every written, but an important background to understand why Sicily is still a melting pot of culture as far as its people, food, traditions and architecture.

Foodie Heaven

The Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spanish have all left their indelible mark on ingredients and recipes, producing a cuisine that is the essence of what good eating should be.

Ask any person from Sicily about their heritage and you won’t hear the word Italian. Rather, they and everything about them - especially food - is Sicilian.

Sun-soaked local ingredients such as seafood, olives, raisins, eggplant, capers and tomatoes abound. An astonishing 67% of the citrus farms in all of Italy are located in Sicily. Tarocco, the Sicilian blood orange is only grown in Sicily and exclusive to the island. Don’t leave Sicily without having blood oranges!

Arancini originate in Sicily. These fried rice balls are filled with everything from meat to vegetables, but always include cheese and tomato sauce. Sicily is also the home of cannoli, deep fried pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta with candied fruit and chocolate. Granita is another home grown favourite which is shaved ice flavoured with fruit, often eaten with a brioche for breakfast and so popular on hot summer days.

The fire-god mountain

For adventure seekers, there is no better thrill than walking around the craters of Europe’s largest and most active volcano, Mount Etna. This fire-god mountain that has been active for 2.5 million years holds the record for eruptions and has been called the greatest pyrotechnic show on earth. No wonder this fire breathing volcano has been held in awe and respected by generations of Sicilians.

The fertile volcanic ash has made it ideal for planting olive groves, orchards, nut plantations and luscious vineyards. The highest town on Mount Etna called Zafferana Etnea has been producing ‘Etna Gold’ since 1910, which is superb honey that accounts for 15% of the honey supplied to Italy.

Mount Etna is 3,329 metres high, but even at 2,000 metres where you can walk around the perimeter of several craters, it is a surreal experience. During the winter, where else in the world can you ski the mountain slopes with eyes on the sea below.

Baroque towns born out of catastrophe

Sicilian baroque architecture happened because of a catastrophe. In 1693 the southeast of the island was hit by an earthquake that virtually destroyed Catania and completely flattened Noto, Ragusa and Modica.

Backed by aristocratic money, baroque architects built entirely new towns. Over the top decoration with ornate detail, graceful balconies, elaborate carving, swags of fruit and flowers and wildly gesticulating saints are all trademarks of the architecture. Sublime Noto, its honey coloured stone glowing golden in the sunlight, is the most beautiful of all Sicily’s baroque towns. Locals call it ‘il giardino di pietra’, the garden of stone.

Impossibly picturesque Taormina

Perched on top of a mountain with a nickname, ‘Pearl of the Ionian Sea’, Taormina is irresistible. An idyllic town with streets full of charm, the scent of orange and lemon blossom and an ancient Greek theatre with views of the Ionian sea and Mount Etna letting off steam. Doesn’t get better than that!

The Greek inhabitants of Taormina first built a small theatre here in the 3rd century BC. However, what you see today dates back to the Romans who added columns and niches in the 2nd century BC. Since 1983, one of the most important events of the Sicilian summer has been held in the Greek theatre called the Taormina Arte Festival. The program is full of musical, theatrical, dance and cinematic events.

Old town of Ortigia

The tiny island of Ortigia, the historic centre of Syracuse, is widely considered one of the most beautiful destinations in Sicily. Inhabited for over 3,000 years and renowned for its Greek heritage, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its “remarkable testimony to the Mediterranean cultures over the centuries.”

On an island only one kilometre long and barely 500m wide, it is heavenly exploring every nook and cranny of the tight streets crammed with remnants of the past in the shape of ruins, churches and palaces. In the elegant Piazza del Duomo stands the Duomo, built where the goddess Athena’s shrine once stood and incorporating the Doric columns of the 5th century BC pagan temple. No other building in Sicily illustrates the island’s layers of civilization better.

The historic food market of Ortigia is everything you want an Italian market to be. There is always lots of shouting, gesticulating, wonderful smells and fresh local produce. An early morning visit here is a great start to the day before circumnavigating the edge of the island.

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana,

Deb