Rome is fascinating, impressive, chaotic and irresistible. It can also be overwhelming and crowded.

When I first saw Rome in 2009 as a Tour Leader with my newly created business called Ciao Italy Tours and my first group of ten people, I thought I had it covered. I so didn’t.

The years since have taught me what the internet couldn’t, simply by aimless wandering and talking to locals.

There are hidden in plain sight unbelievable treasures, if you only know where to look.  Rome is a city that needs to be walked to find the unusual and totally unexpected because there are surprises around every corner.

There will always be the unmissable iconic landmarks, but the best way to capture them in the most photographed city in Europe is with an early morning walk whilst Rome still sleeps.

You will discover the real city, noticing unobtrusive details and sensing that every stone and crack in a wall is suffused with history and can tell a gripping story. Secrets everywhere.

Enjoy a cappuccino at either one of my two favourite early morning cafes, Tazza d’Oro and Sant’Eustachio, both near the Pantheon.

Being a savvy traveller means wandering off the tourist grid.  A three minute stride across the Spanish Piazza takes you to one of the most beautiful streets in the historic centre called Via Margutta, so named because of a family of barbers, the Margutti, who were living there when the census of 1526 was taken.  In the 17th century the city offered tax concessions to foreign artists to move into the street.  To this day it has been known as the artist’s street, also made famous in 1953 in the movie ‘Roman Holiday’ when Gregory Peck rode his vespa down the street with Audrey Hepburn hanging on tightly.

Falling in love with Rome means having quintessential Italian experiences.  Explore the Eternal City on the back of a vespa like a true Roman, scootering through ancient neighbourhoods that you wouldn’t normally see.

Scooteroma is the best.

Rooftop bars are great for aperitivo, but expensive.

• Try the cloister of the 15th century Bramonte Monastery behind Piazza Navona for an aperol spritz. On the first floor there is a bookshop that specializes in art, an art exhibition in the cloister, a café and beautiful lounge area with a window into the church below where you can see Raphael’s famous Sybil fresco which he painted in 1524. Who knew.

Sometimes, there is no avoiding crowds if the Colosseum and Vatican Museum are on your list.

• Always book a reputable tour guide to avoid queueing for a ridiculously long time. Good guides are not only knowledgeable and passionate, but live and breathe the history of their city to give you the best experience possible.

Embrace Italian culture!

• Drink your coffee at the bar with your cornetto con crema (flaky pastry filled with the lightest custard) for less than 3 euro

• Fill up your water bottle with delicious cold water at any one of the 2,500 drinking fountains in the centro storico

• Dine at small restaurants tucked away in side streets and definitely avoid tourist menus.

Visit the supermercato

• Find your way through the labyrinth of narrow aisles to the deli section at the back for an amazing selection of antipasti

• Buy fruit and vegetables at Campo de Fiori which is close to everything

• Visit Mercato di Campagna Amica market on a Sunday which is Rome’s largest farmer’s market and where the locals shop.

Know the five rules for buying gelato:

1. Avoid mountain high tubs with fruit sticking out the top and 100 flavours which is way too many to be made fresh daily.

2. Colour should closely match real life ingredients so no fluorescent colours.

3. You should be able to taste little bits of fruit or nuts.

4. A gelateria with lids on the tubs is a bonus because it ensures the right temperature control.

5. If the different temperatures are displayed on the wall, it is a guarantee of superior gelato.

There is no such thing as Italian food.

• It is surprising to learn that a true Italian cuisine hardly exists. Each region, province and city has its own proud gastronomic traditions and local specialties. Italian food is so good because Italians are passionate about food and that is how they cook – with love and passion.

• Eating seasonal food is a way of life that borders on a sacred rite. You will never have a bad meal in Rome if you eat the local produce and know what is in season.

A little bit hidden in the heart of the centre is Rome’s Jewish Ghetto which has the oldest Jewish community in Europe.  This beautiful, thriving neighbourhood is as central to the history of the city as it is to the Jewish faith.

• The most notable Jewish Roman dishes originate from the years of the Ghetto’s curfew between the 1500s and the 1800s when the three gates were locked after sunset by law. They utilised what were then thought of as humble ingredients like artichokes, codfish and zucchini.

• Jewish style artichokes are a spring delicacy that are deep fried. Simple, yet delicious, they are perhaps the best known dish to come from the Ghetto and are one of the most characteristic foods to eat in Rome. The season is short though, lasting from February to April.

Shopping in Italy is something I love because you can still find hole-in-the-wall shops with artisans proudly at work and Rome is no exception.

• Wander the less touristy streets near Campo de Fiori.

• discover Rome’s oldest neighbourhood called Monti with its cobbled streets and ivy coloured buildings, now buzzing with cafes, bars and artisan shops.

• Cross the Tiber river to the working class neighbourhood of Trastevere for a perfect few hours of aimless wandering. The Almost Corner Bookstore is a hidden gem for finding a book on ‘Secret Rome’.

Be curious, take random turns, blend in, learn a few Italian greetings and phrases; engage with locals and know that you can always escape crowds no matter where you are.

Deb