Italy (and Rome) as an Italian

I had an idea to invite one of my favourite people in Italy, whom I admire and respect, to be a guest writer for the Ciao Italy Newsletter. To my delight, Vassili Balocco, Manager of Hotel Gregoriana in Rome, responded with an enthusiastic ‘Si! Certo!’ Here is his story.

- Deb

When Deb (or should I write Deborah Jane Taylor, CEO and Founder of Ciao Italy Tours?) asked me to write a text for her lovely and interesting newsletter - yes, I did subscribe and I keep reading it week by week - I immediately accepted without even knowing what the topic would have been.

After a pleasant chat about my feelings and thoughts on being an Italian who lives in Rome, she surprised me by asking to just talk about this. It is one of the topics which could be very difficult to approach, being extremely generic, but it is also one in which I am really interested in, being most probably one of the last and few patriotic Italians who is not yet 90 years old!

I am honestly in love with my country and I am getting even more despite reading all the negative things that the press, especially the Italian one, unfortunately keeps putting in evidence. Of course I am not saying that everything is perfect, on the contrary, a lot of work has to be done. But changing the way we see and speak about Italy to the world could be a great start, especially since the actual approach most of the time is far from the truth.

I would like to mention natural wonders, incomparable history, amazing food, traditions and quality of life, but first allow me to share some data as a brief introduction. Italy, despite being a very small country of just 301,000 square kilometres and less than 60 million inhabitants, is the seventh world economy, the second European manufacturing country after Germany and the fifth in the world, after China, Japan, Germany and Korea.

Achievements reached without forgetting about sustainability, with 871 protected natural areas covering more than 10% of our territory; 79% of waste recycled (about double of the world average); 3 million ‘green jobs’ and about 15% of our cultivations being organic.

Not to mention, of course, what we have done in the previous 2,000 years! Starting from ancient Etruscans and Romans, going on with the not-so-dark medieval age followed by the glorious renaissance with its discoveries and extraordinary works of art and continuing with the early industrial age with many of the new technologies coming from Italian researchers. Did you know that we also have our own ‘Steve Jobs’? Adriano Olivetti. If you are curious, have a look at his interesting story and his futuristic shop that opened in 1954 on 5th Avenue in New York City.

We are not just eating pizza after all, and the so called ‘dolce far niente - the art of doing nothing’, becomes precious exactly because we normally do a lot!

But let’s make it a little bit more personal . . .

I grew up on Lake Como, the place I call home and one of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen. From there I moved to Milan, where I completed my studies and then worked for many years until I moved to Rome to manage the Hotel Gregoriana, a small boutique hotel in one of the most elegant residential streets in the area, just a few footsteps from Trinita dei Monti and the Spanish Steps.

Hotel Gregoriana, Via Gregoriana

Not being an authentic Roman, I think I can say it . . . what a wonderful city! Historic wonders all around, enjoyable weather almost all the year and a stunning light which offers magic dawns and sunsets. While in Rome one can feel something special. Crossed by the Tiber and close to the Mediterranean Sea, it is not just by chance that it became the centre of the ancient world. And one can feel it in every part of the city, from the grandeur of eic places like the Colosseum, the ‘Altare della Patria’ or Saint Peter’s Square, to the surprising beauty of hidden corners like Via Margutta or the many little streets in Monti, Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto.

It would be impossible to mention here all the places which are worth a visit, but I always like to mention a nice itinerary from our hotel which could be a little bit different from the standard ones. Walking up Via Gregoriana in just a couple of minutes one encounters the XVI Century Church of Trinita dei Monti and the Sallustian obelisk, dating back to the II or III Century A.D. From there, after being mesmerised by the amazing view from the top of the Spanish Steps, one could keep walking up to the park of Villa Borghese where it is possible to enjoy so many beautiful corners, antique buildings and statues, while reaching one of the most interesting museums of the city, the Borghese Gallery, with works of art by Caravaggio, Raffaello, Tiziano, Correggio, Bernini, Canova and many more. From there it is possible to keep crossing the park, descending the hill on the opposite side, until the National Gallery of Modern Art and, a little bit further ahead, the Etruscan Museum of Villa Giulia.

Not many cities offer the chance to walk across 3,000 years of history, astonishing works of art and amazing views of Rome.

But of course so much beauty attracts so many people, and this is not always for the best. A difficult balance to find between hospitality and conservation, between quality of life for residents and services for tourists.

Living in Rome and working just a few steps from the Spanish Steps, I find myself descending the famous steps just a few times in a year - too many people around, not enough peace to enjoy the marvellous surroundings. But whenever I do, I still get overwhelmed by the beauty before my eyes.

And there is always the chance to choose the right time to roam around the city. Very early in the morning, a little before dawn, it is the best time to get immersed in a magic and somehow nostalgic atmosphere, resembling some XVIII Century paintings.

Just one or two hours per day won’t be enough for someone visiting the city. Over-tourism is a big challenge, not only in Rome but in all our many beautiful natural places, cities of art and picturesque villages. And the way we will plan our hospitality to the many tourists and travellers who wish to visit us will design our future and our chance to preserve the most authentic version of our country, our history and traditions. Which, in the end, are the exact reasons why so many people still wish to visit Italy.