Rome

Years ago, before I knew my way around Rome, I would meet Ferdinando Badagliacca, a passionate guide and archaeologist, who would lead my group on a walking tour. He taught me a lot and I always remember him saying “you could live in the historic centre of Rome for a year and still not see everything”. That is so true. He also told me that Rome is a city that is still 60% undiscovered.

The more I research, the deeper I delve, the more curious I become . . . only leaves me wanting to know more.

Aqueducts and fountains

Rome is full of fountains, around 2,500, that you can safely drink from. During the Roman Empire, Rome had eleven aqueducts providing water for 39 monumental fountains and 591 public basins, in addition to the emperor’s house private villas and public baths. The famous Trevi Fountain is still fed by the ancient Aqua Virgo aqueduct which is the only ancient aqueduct still functioning in Rome.

A department store with an aqueduct In October 2017, a new Rinascente department store opened after complex renovation work that lasted eleven years. The architecture had to be in perfect harmony with the historical and cultural wealth of the area. During the renovation one of the ancient treasures of Rome was discovered. In the basement you can see a well preserved section of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct inaugurated by Augustus in 19 B.C. A prestigious state of the art department store with an aqueduct in the basement . . . that’s Rome!

Levels six and seven host the food hall, restaurants, food market and outdoor lounge bar with stunning views over the rooftops of Rome. A perfect choice for aperitivo.

Vicus Caprarius - the city of water A few steps from the Trevi Fountain is Vicus Caprarius, the city of water lying nine metres below road level. What began in 1999 as an excavation of the old Trevi Cinema building to create a modern cinema revealed an apartment complex from the 1st century. It is an archaeological site that extends over an area of 350 square metres where you can see the cistern that still funnels water to the Trevi Fountain. Many treasures were discovered including over 800 coins dating back to the 4th and 5th century AD.

Palaces

Galleria Doria Pampilj is a private palace of a thousand rooms still owned by the Doria Pamphilj family. The ornate halls provide a grand setting for Rome’s largest private art collection. As you wander from one elegant room to another, Prince Jonathon Doria Pamphilj’s voice narrates the family’s history through your audio guide.

Near Campo dei Fiori, Palazzo Spada is a striking historic palace built in the 16th century and redesigned by a Roman architect, Borromini, a century later. Inside there is an incredible art collection with paintings and sculptures by artists including Titian and Caravaggio. There are walls plastered in frescoes and grand halls of opulent marble and outside a peaceful courtyard with eight impressive colonnades.

Villa Farnesina was built in the early 16th century for Agostino Chigi, a highly ambitious patron and art lover who was born in Siena in 1466. He decorated the villa magnificently with frescoes by great masters such as Raphael and lived there until his death in 1520. You can also take a walk through this villa.

Trastevere

To be counted as a true Roman your family has to have been born in Rome for the last seven generations at least! It is said that the last true Romans are all living in Trastevere, although they will call themselves Trasteverini. This is one of Rome’s rioni - neighbourhoods. There are 22 in Rome and one of the oldest and most authentic is Trastevere, which means across the Tiber (river). It has changed little since the 14th century and is considered a working class neighbourhood. It’s full of cute shops, great places to eat, alleyways to lose yourself in and has a great vibe.

There are hundreds of churches in Rome, but Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the most breathtaking. The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was built in the Middle Ages. With shimmering gold and glass mosaics, it has been further embellished over seven centuries with frescoes, gilded wood and marble veneer.

Another gem is the ancient pharmacy of Santa Maria della Scala that dates back to the 16th century. It takes its name from the nearby church and convent of Santa Maria della Scala. On the second floor of the convent was a pharmacy/apothecary, initially for internal and exclusive use of the convent itself. Over time it was nicknamed the ‘pharmacy of the popes’ because cardinals, princes and popes would go there.

While the ground floor of the building is occupied today by a modern pharmacy, the upper floor has preserved the ancient apothecary that you can visit. A friar will welcome you and tell you about the various herbs, potions, balms and oils that they used to heal the ancient Romans.

Artisan shopping

Bottega del Marmoraro, Via Margutta, 53B

Via Condotti, directly in front of the Spanish Steps, is the most expensive street for shopping so it’s my window shopping only street. What I love are the one-of-a-kind, can’t be found anywhere else items in artisan owned shops and Rome has a lot! Here are a few of my favourites.

Bottega del Marmoraro, Via Margutta, 53B In a very cool, cobbled street known as the artist’s street, you will find this marvellously cluttered marble workshop where former architect, Sandro Fiorentini, continues the work of his father writing words and phrases of your choosing onto little slabs of marble. A wonderful, authentic gift to take home as a precious memory of Rome.

Bags and Fruits, Via dei Giubbonari, 106 I love this shop! Jaim Telias, a Chilean designer and architect, has a passion for handmade in Italy, so he moved to Rome and opened an amazing shop selling unique, quirky and original handmade bags and shoes. He sources from all over Italy and everything is made by artisans.

Castroni, Via Frattina, 79 There are many locations in Rome with the one in Prati open since 1932. A chamber of wonders from coffee and tea to spices and oils to wines, sweets and chocolates.

Altroquando - Libreria and Pub, Via del Governo Vecchio, 82 This artsy bookstore is one of the best spots to browse for titles you didn’t even know you wanted. There is also an onsite pub with artisan beers.

Booktique, Via della Stelletta, 17 A little treasure trove for curious minds, design lovers, book addicts and lovers of unusual gifts.

Litografia Bulla, Via del Vantaggio, 2 Founded in 1818 in Paris and headquartered in Rome in 1840, this store is the oldest artist’s lithography studio still in operation. You can shop from a beautiful collection of limited edition prints as well as visit the store simply to watch the printing process.

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb