Ristorante Da Adolfo

I’ve always loved my ‘almost secret’ places that I can share with all who travel with me, but social media has a way of telling the whole world and the secret is no more.

This is a story about a man called Adolfo Bella, born in Positano in 1916. Imprisoned on the Greek island of Crete during the Second World War, Adolfo managed to escape and make his way back to Italy where he joined an anti-fascist partisan resistance unit near Parma, taking part in many sabotage missions. In 1944, Adolfo and three comrades from a small village in Emilia, Italy, used dynamite to blow up the major transport bridge carrying munitions and supplies from Germany to France. In doing so, they saved the town from occupation. Years later, Adolfo would return to the small village of Borgo Taro. The whole town came out into the streets to greet the man who had saved them. He was their hero.

When Adolfo returned to Positano after the war he started a small bicycle, scooter and car rental business, but also worked the summer season as a water-ski instructor. One day whilst zipping along in his boat, Adolfo spotted the small, wild beach of Laurito which is not far from Positano. This moment was the beginning of his dream to open a simple beach bar in an oasis of tranquility and natural beauty. In 1966, Ristorante Da Adolfo opened and 58 years on is still going strong, now owned and run by Sergio, son of Adolfo.

In 1985, Amanda, daughter of Maggie Tabberer, was living in Florence and decided to go on a girls weekend to Positano. Learning that there was a very cool beach restaurant a couple of coves away and that the only way to reach it was by boat skippered by a very hot Italian man, they were in. The ‘hot’ man was Sergio who Amanda fell in love with and lived with for 18 years, initially in the garage beneath his parents’ house. For a couple of years she worked as a waitress at Da Adolfo (not sure Maggie was happy about this), but then began screen printing t-shirts and making a range of linen clothing. She also started a business organising weddings and accommodation for visitors to Positano. In 2003 Amanda and Sergio went their separate ways and Amanda returned to Sydney with their son, Marco, who now divides his time between Australia and Positano, working alongside Sergio at Da Adolfo.

Over the years I have enjoyed many long lunches at Da Adolfo with my wonderful travellers. The characteristic wooden boat with the red fish on the mast ferries people from the wharf in Positano to Laurito beach fifteen minutes away from 10:00am to 1:00pm and makes the return trip from 4:00pm. This is a free service for guests lunching at Da Adolfo. Upon arrival, the challenge is getting from the jetty to the pebbly beach without getting your feet wet, not so easy when the tide is high. The kitchen is 20 steps above the al fresco terrace where the barefoot waiters bound effortlessly up and down all afternoon. Not to be missed is the signature dish of grilled mozzarella on a fragrant lemon leaf. So simple. So delicious.

Herein lies the problem. You need to book because without a confirmed booking you can’t get on the wooden boat. The only way to book is to phone, but no-one answers the phone. Emails are not acceptable. You could phone a friend, but even the locals have trouble getting through. You have to ask yourself how do all the people who manage to book do it? Timing. Book well in advance.

A love story

“The Amalfi Coast - the part of Italy that breaks everybody’s heart and everybody longs to return to:

the mozzarella, the pasta, the lemons, the blue of the sea, the friendly people.” Zeppole

There’s no denying that the Amalfi Coast is one of the most magical places in Italy that has been attracting tourists for decades. Perched over the gulf of Naples, the collection of towns along the 55 kilometre coastline boast views of Vesuvius, Capri, Ischia and the endless blue sea. Don’t be discouraged when you find it overcrowded because there are many towns that are overlooked by tourists, but an absolute delight to visit.

Sitting exactly halfway between Amalfi and Positano is the quiet fishing village of Praiano that climbs 120 metres above the sea with white villas and little houses that fit perfectly into the landscape. There is no shortage of steps to climb and descend to the beach.

Years ago, we travelled the nine kilometres from Amalfi to Praiano on an afternoon of discovery. On the way down the steps to the beach, a door on the left opened into a welcoming restaurant with stunning views of the coastline all the way to Capri. This unexpected find was the start of a love story with Ristorante Il Pino, charming owner Simone, warm and welcoming staff and delicious food.

Our Praiano experience now begins with an (early) aperitivo in the gorgeous town; a rowdy and fun cooking class at Ristorante Il Pino that kickstarts with a limoncello spritz followed by Simone imparting his incredible knowledge as we learn how to make zucchini flowers, eggplant parmigiana and tiramisu. We are even invited into the kitchen to watch them embellish and refine our best efforts which we then devour accompanied by superb wines as the sun sets over the sea. Doesn’t get better than that!

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb