Puglia - The Land of 50 Million Olive Trees

Without olive trees, Puglia is unthinkable. Puglia produces a staggering 40% of all of Italy’s olive oil and 12% of the world’s.

Italy’s southern-most region has an 800 kilometre coastline lapped by the waters of the Adriatic sea. To the west of the region the blue Ionian sea dazzles spectacularly. No surprise then that Puglia is the winner of 13 coveted Blue Flag beach awards.

Six towns you don’t want to miss!

Ostuni - La Citta Bianca

Known all over the world as the White City, this whitewashed medieval town sits on top of a hill overlooking a carpet of olive trees all the way to the Adriatic sea, eight kilometres away. Steps, staircases, arches and a labyrinth of alleys with hints of the Middle Ages make it a joy to surrender any sense of direction and lose yourself.

Ostuni was already populated during the Paleolithic period 50,000-40,000 years ago by Neanderthal hunters who found shelter in numerous grottoes in the area. Proof of this is a skeleton of a 20 year old pregnant woman dating back 25,000 years. The woman, now named “Delia”, was discovered in a cave in 1991 and is on display in the Church of San Vito Martire in the historic centre.

In the 17th century the plague devastated Puglia and only a few villages survived. The inhabitants of Ostuni covered each house with limestone mixed with water to ward off illness, believing that the antibacterial properties of the white lime would help. Some say there was also a strategic advantage to the white paint as the sunlight reflecting off the houses could potentially blind enemies approaching from the sea.

Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta

On top of the hill rises the majestic Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. The cherished 15th century building is a prime example of Gothic architecture. Its remarkable rose window with 24 rays, each representing an hour of the day, is the largest rose window in Italy and the second largest in Europe.

Just a short distance from the White City lies the ‘Piana degli Ulivi’, a vast expanse of land that extends all the way to the coastline, home to an astonishing number of olive trees, some of which are 3,000 years old. Recognised as a global national treasure, the land is also dotted with ancient underground oil mills symbolising Puglia’s rich olive oil heritage. An e-bike tour is a delightful, effortless way to discover the area.

Monopoli

Inhabited since 500 BC, Monopoli takes its name from the early Greek city that was founded here called ‘Monos Polis’, meaning singularly unique. Like many of the towns in this part of Puglia, Monopoli’s centro storico is built of white stone and dotted with other white-washed buildings which contrast perfectly with the vibrant blue sky and sea.

The town’s Spanish conquerors fortified Monopoli, building defensive walls with seaward bastions and a castle which still stands today. For centuries the castle was used as a jail and a defensive fortress.

My favourite part of the town is Porta Vecchia, the port where you can walk along the water’s edge, watch the traditional blue and red boats bobbing on the water and talk to the fishermen repairing their nets along the lungomare (seafront promenade).

Pull up a chair in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi in the heart of the old town, order a coffee or spritz and enjoy watching locals go about their daily business.

Locorotondo

Officially one of the Borghi piu belli d’Italia - most beautiful villages in Italy - this town is simply gorgeous. The centro storico, perched on the top of a curvaceous hill, is circular. It is a whitewashed maze of little lanes lined with historic buildings, some humble and faded, others retaining rather grand baroque archways and detailed architecture. There are also houses with pointed gable roofs, uncommon in Italy, called cummerse.

Every little street and every little house feels well cared for with abundant flower pots providing splashes of colour on stone stairways and balconies. I am in my happy place aimlessly wandering, taking a ridiculous number of photos.

As you walk and discover, there are wonderful views over the Valle d’Itria, a patchwork of vineyards, olive groves and trulli dissected by dry-stone walls.

Locorotondo is known for its wine. The principal wine produced locally is white and sparkling, inexpensive and good. The main wine producer is a historic co-operative called the Cantina Sociale del Locorotondo. The company dates back to the 1930s and is based close to the railway station at the bottom of the town, where you can wander in, taste and buy.

Alberobello - Home of the Trulli

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, Alberobello is a fairytale town with clusters of trulli, small dry stone huts with conical roofs. Its literal meaning is beautiful tree - albero (tree) and bello (beautiful).

The trulli were originally constructed as temporary field sheds. They could be dismantled quickly to avoid taxation when the tax inspectors came to town. In the 19th century the trulli were no longer dismantled, therefore most of what we see today dates from the 19th and 20th centuries.

Rione Moni is the larger, more touristy neighbourhood with more than a thousand trulli in a relatively small area. Rione Aia Piccola has around 400 trulli and feels more authentic without as many tourists.

Rione Moni

Several of the shops have an upper level terrace. To be invited onto the terrace, you have to buy something from the shop, which could just be a bottle of water, but it’s well worth it for the view and photo opportunity of the rooftops of the trulli.

Otranto

Clinging to the most south-easterly tip of Italy with Albania on the other side of the Adriatic sea is the enchanting town of Otranto. It was once a thriving Roman port, a bridge between east and west and therefore an important merchant port. It was the stage for many historic battles and has a turbulent past.

The centro storico is on a low promontory overlooking the bay and is still enclosed with fortification walls, preserving its ancient atmosphere. There are sidewalk cafes on top of the ramparts overlooking the sea and an intricate maze of alleyways and white-washed homes. The main population of 5,500 residents live in the new city, but the historic centre still retains its charm and is also included on the list as one the of most beautiful towns in Italy.

Not to be missed is the Romanesque cathedral dating back to 1088. It has one of the largest floor mosaics in the world, dating back to the 12th century.

Gallipoli

The Salento peninsula forms the heel of Italy and Gallipoli is located on the western side. The historic centre is linked to the mainland by a 16th century bridge. Surrounded on all sides by the sparkling Ionian sea and home to an ancient fishing harbour, the old town is a network of narrow cobblestone streets, historical buildings and picturesque piazzas.

The Gallipoli Fish Market is a bustling place to visit early in the morning when restaurant owners and locals gather here for the daily auction to buy freshly caught fish directly from the fishermen. Later in the day, vendors set out tables and chairs and you have a heavenly selection of seafood from the sea to the plate.

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana,

Deb