Procida

Corricella

There are so many reasons to love this enchanting four square kilometre island that is the smallest island in the Bay of Naples and the least visited, as it is often overshadowed by its neighbours, the islands of Capri and Ischia. It is 14 miles off the coast of Naples and a forty minute or one hour ferry ride, depending on which ferry you catch.

It’s so Italian, so real, so unpretentious and a photographer’s dream with clusters of coloured buildings in shades of pink, yellow, orange, red and blue, which is how the fishermen could identify their homes when returning from a long night of fishing.

There are no designer shops, fancy thermal spas and no glitz, just locals going about their daily business, scootering around the island.

In 2022, Procida was the proud winner of Italian Capital of Culture, the first time an island had been awarded this coveted title. One of the key reasons Procida was chosen is the island’s wealth of traditional artistry with an abundance of artisan workshops. The island has also had its big screen moments including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s version of Cleopatra in 1962, Il Postino and The Talented Mr. Ripley.

There are nine historic contrade (neighbourhoods) and a population around 10,000. Procida has always been an island of fishermen so the locals identify strongly with the sea. It is an island of jagged cliffs, secluded beaches and coves, three marinas and a perimeter of just over 16 kilometres. This is an island easily explored by foot, on an e-bike or the local bus which takes you to any part of the island in just minutes.

Palazzo d’Avalos - the prison overlooking the sea

Terra Murata, the historic centre of the island, represents the highest point, strategically placed to protect and defend against any threats from the sea. Time has stood still in this small village built during the Middle Ages on the island’s peak. As you immerse yourself in the labyrinth of narrow streets and houses leaning against each other, you will arrive at the imposing Palazzo d’Avalos, famous for housing a prison until 1988 and subsequently the Royal Palace and the Abbey of San Michele, patron saint of the island.

Palazzo d’Avalos is a historical building dating back to the late 1500s, commissioned by the family of the same name of Spanish origin that ruled Procida until 1700. To fortify the island which had been attacked for centuries by the raids of Saracen pirates, Cardinal Innico d’Avalos built a palace to serve as both a stately residence and a fortress in case of attack. The building was surrounded by walls that allowed new access to the ancient village of Terra Casata. it has since taken its current name of Terra Murata, literally the ‘walled land’.

Marina della Corricella

Marina della Corricella, the most photographed and oldest seaside village of Procida, is irresistible. Villas and small houses are a visual delight painted from a palette of pastel colours, snuggling next to and on top of each other, often crowned by balconies covered with arches of Arab origin.

Handicrafts and unique creations

There’s nothing I like better than finding a beautiful artisan owned shop with authentic handmade products, especially when you meet the artisan and hear the stories behind the creations.

Within five minutes of disembarking at Marina Grande, there is the wonderful art gallery of Luigi Nappa. Born in 1938 on Procida, he has lived two lives, one sailing the seas from the age of 18, culminating in 20 years as the General Manager of Operations and Passenger Services for Sitmar Cruises in Sydney and his second life, immersed in the world of art. During long weeks at sea, Luigi became obsessed with sketching and painting which became a lifelong passion. His creations are all a labour of love with his best oils, pastels, charcoals, sculptures and ceramics finding homes around the world.

Close to Luigi’s gallery is a gorgeous artisan workshop called Maricella that has been producing women’s clothing and jewellery since 1985. Each piece is unique and inspired by the colours and shades of the island. On one visit I bought the most beautiful pair of handmade gloves, totally impractical for living on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland! But I do love them.

In Rosso Corallo you will find Mrs. Luisa, originally from Naples, who has imported her passion for the bright red of coral to Procida. Today she creates her jewellery entirely by hand, right in front of the admiring eyes of her customers.

Sartoria Casa di Reclusione is where the prison tailor decided to revive the original brand that made uniforms for the inmates of the old prison in Palazzo d’Avalos. The clothes produced range from elegant to casual and are inspired by the traditions and symbols of Procida.

I can never resist a bookshop. Nutrimenti Bookshop, loved by locals and tourists, has many books on the history and events of Procida. Over the years the bookshop has become a meeting place for writers and readers and a centre for cultural events, such as the “Procida Racconta” festival. This initiative, which takes place every year in June, sends five Italian writers to the island to find their characters and tell their stories, which are then published in a booklet that is available in the bookshop.

Eating and drinking the local products

Foglioli and Scorza are special liqueurs made with the leaf and peel of the lemon (but not the pulp as in classic Limoncello). The official retailer is in the heart of Procida, but the liqueurs can be found almost anywhere on the island, from grocery shops to souvenir shops.

Lingua di Bue is the typical pastry of the island, consisting of puff pastry that is shaped like a tongue and filled with lemon or custard cream. The best is at Bar Dal Cavaliere, which also offers Frollicella, a typical shortcrust pastry filled with lemon flavoured ricotta cream.

Who can resist seafood from the sea onto the plate? Consider these delicious recipes:

Spaghetti alla pescatora povera This “poor” version of seafood spaghetti contains just anchovies, cherry tomatoes and a sprinkling of pecorino cheese. If it’s simple, you know it will be delizioso!

Luveri al sale The waters of Procida abound with pagello fish, which locals call luvero. The most popular way to cook this sea bream is in a salt crust (al sale) with some herbs.

Calamari ripieni Recipes vary, but the Procidani usually slip anchovies into their filling for stuffed squid.

Can’t wait for our next long lunch on this island paradise!

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb