Discovering the Northern End of Lake Garda

Lago di Garda, as it is known in Italy, is Italy’s largest lake split into three regions in the north which are Lombardy, Veneto and Trentino-Alto Adige. With a length of just over 50 kilometres, 150 kilometres of shoreline and a width of 18 kilometres at the southern end, there is much to discover. Within close proximity at the northern end and only 1.5 hour’s drive from the Dolomites are three gorgeous lakeside villages.

Riva del Garda - an adventure playground

Tucked into the northern tip of Lake Garda, bordered by Monte Rocchetta to the west and Monte Brione to the east, is charming Riva del Garda. Immensely popular for its adventure sports including windsurfing, sailing, hiking, cycling and rock climbing, this lakeside village with its narrow alleyways, colourful buildings and dramatic backdrop of majestic mountains was a delight to explore for three days as a prelude to a week in the Dolomites in June.

Before becoming known to tourists in the mid 19th century, Riva del Garda was strategically very important. The town controlled the northern half of the lake and also had an influence on trade routes coming and going over the Alps. Therefore, much of its history relates to wars and fortifications. Two medieval city gates still stand, Porta San Marco and Porta di San Michele and there is the obligatory medieval watchtower in the waterfront piazza. The 13th century Torre Apponale is not a tall tower at 34 metres high with 165 wooden steps, but it was tall enough to protect access to the lake and the town in times gone by.

On the side of the mountain looking down on Riva del Garda there is another tower called the Bastione, built between 1507-1509 to defend the town. An almost vertical funicular whisks you up 200 metres in three minutes where there is also a restaurant and bar, perfect for aperitivo and glorious lake views.

From here, for those of us who can’t say no to a challenge, there is a steep uphill three kilometre walk to the Santa Barbara Chapel nestled into the mountain, a walk that rewards you with sweeping views of a tiny town, a big lake and even bigger mountains. Not to mention a sense of achievement (and relief) on reaching the tiny white church dwarfed by the soaring Monte Rocchetta. The chapel was built by the miners during the construction of the Hydroelectric Power Plant in 1925 and is dedicated to the patron saint of the miners.

Limone sul Garda - famous for lemons

A short ferry ride from Riva on the north western side of the lake is another appealing village. Limone’s heritage relates back to lemon houses and an olive mill. As you approach from the lake you can see the remains of the old lemon houses dotted amidst the houses. These limonaie were structures enabling the locals to protect their lemon trees from the frosts of winter. Lemon groves were brought to the shores of Lake Garda by monks in the 14th century, but it would take four centuries for them to become established in Limone.

Limone sul Garda first captured my attention a couple of years ago when I saw photos of a spectacular elevated bike path suspended over the edge of Lake Garda. It has been on my ‘must do’ list ever since and it didn’t disappoint. Built 50 metres above the lake, the first stage starts in Limone and takes you 2.5 kilometres to Capo Reamol. The Garda by Bike project plans to extend the path to 140 kilometres around the edge of the lake which will be amazing.

Malcesine - an historic fishing village

Ferry across to the eastern shore to irresistible Malcesine, voted one of the “Most Beautiful Villages in Italy” in 2023. On a rocky spur rising out of the lake is the towering medieval Castello Scaligero, a castle named for the Della Scala family from Verona who ruled the town. Malcesine is picture perfect with quaint piazzas, cobblestone alleyways and a path bordering the lake that is fantastic to cycle.

Rising behind the village is yet another majestic mountain called Monte Baldo. A cable car with an inside cabin that rotates 360 degrees gives you incomparable views of the lake as you ascend 1760 metres. At the summit there are two restaurants and a network of walking trails along the ridge and through the valley. Truly a walker’s paradise.

So many reasons to visit

The northern end of the lake has a reputation for strong winds, making it perfect for windsurfing and sailing. The stunning scenery of lake and mountains and accessibility with cable cars and chairlifts opens up a whole new world of walking trails and cycling paths to suit all levels of fitness.

Once you have explored, the villages entice you to sit back with aperol spritz in hand and enjoy all that is before you with lakeside views and excellent restaurants.

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb