Life in Lucca

This charming old city elicits love at first sight. I could live in Lucca in a heartbeat. Any historic centre surrounded by a wall is appealing, but what I find really intoxicating is that everyone walks or rides a bike within the wall or on top of the wall. There is barely any traffic as cars and motorbikes are restricted in the old town. Although located in the northwest corner of Tuscany, the historic centre is flat

Lucca’s monumental mura (wall) was built around the old city in the 16th and 17th centuries and remains in almost perfect condition. It superceded two previous walls, the first built from travertine stone blocks as early as the 2nd century BC. The wall was built to protect the city from the flooding of the Serchio river as well as from hostile invasions. Twelve metres high and surrounding the town for 4.2 kilometres, the top is a wide, tree lined avenue of tall plane trees and grassed areas with picnic tables. The wall is part of daily life where the locals come to cycle, jog, stroll, kick a soccer ball or sit and play cards.

As you cycle or walk the wall looking down on the historic centre, there is one tower that stands out. The Guinigi Tower, built by a powerful family of merchants from Lucca in the 15th century, stands 45 metres high with a garden on the top where seven holm oak trees grow. I highly recommend this relatively easy climb of 230 steps for the stunning views over the rooftops of Lucca and beyond to the Apuan Alps and the Pisan Mountain Range.

Lucca has been continuously inhabited for more than two thousand years

It was never abandoned and it was never destroyed. During most of its history, Lucca thrived. It survived the Dark Ages intact and by the Early Middle Ages it was the capital of Tuscany. In the High Middle Ages it was the silk capital of Europe. Its merchants and bankers preceded those of Florence and Siena. During the Renaissance Florence conquered the rest of Tuscany, but Lucca never fell. In 1805 Napoleon conquered Lucca and gave it to his sister, Eliza, to rule as princess.

What makes Lucca so special is that all of these periods survive today in layers. When Lucca rebuilt it always built on what came before. No city better preserves its original Roman street layout.

Located in the heart of the old town, Piazza Anfiteatro sits on the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre. The original amphitheatre existed in this location since the 2nd century and the square developed from the Middle Ages onwards. When the amphitheatre stood tall in the Roman era, it used to be the place where people gathered to watch the games and events. It had 54 arches and could accommodate almost ten thousand spectators.

In the 19th century, the architect Lorenzo Nottolini was commissioned to rebuild and revive the piazza. Lucca gained a new, open square that was just as big and spacious as the ancient ruins on which it stood. Today it has retained its elliptical shape, accessed by four doorways and surrounded by restaurants, cafes and shops.

Giacomo Puccini

Many great artists and musicians throughout history came from Tuscany. One of the greatest Italian composers is undoubtedly Giacomo Puccini. Born in Lucca in 1858, he came from five generations of a musical family and is known for composing Madame Butterfly. His house still stands and has been restored and transformed into the Puccini Museum where it is possible to take a tour for an insight into his life.

An outstanding music festival

Every year during June and July, the Lucca Sumer Festival attracts music lovers from around the world to see an amazing line-up of international artists. The event began in 1998 and featured Bob Dylan who performed again last year. A few years ago, I was surprised by the number of people crowding the streets, unaware that the Rolling Stones were playing that night, the only night of the year they were playing in Italy. This year, famous musicians include Rod Stewart, Ed Sheeran, Lenny Kravitz, Eric Clapton and Duran Duran. The main stage is located in Piazza Napoleone in the historic centre

The pleasure of wandering Lucca

Part of the charm of Lucca is the number of historical buildings, some dating back to the 8th century, all of which are in excellent condition. All around these buildings there is a maze of narrow winding streets which disappear into alleys or suddenly open up into a sunny piazza filled with bars and cafes to tempt and seduce you.

Whether on foot or bicycle, it is an absolute joy of discovery eating and shopping your way around the quite small historic centre. One year in a tiny, random street that I cycled down, I braked suddenly in front of a gorgeous window display of a fabric store. Inside were shelves lining the walls from floor to ceiling packed tight with beautiful, colourful bolts of fabric. The lady who owned the shop had worked in it for sixty years! Naturally I couldn’t resist buying fabric that was never going to fit in my luggage.

The ancient street of Via Fillungo is now the main shopping street and a treasure trove of interesting shops with ancient signs above the door, art galleries, restaurants and cafes. At No. 95 you will find Gioielleria Carli, founded in 1655. It is one of the country’s oldest and most stunning jewellery stores, known for its opulent interior and a magnificent frescoed ceiling from which a crystal chandelier hangs.

Pesi & Vinci, at No. 39, is a beautiful clothing store inside the 17th century Palazzo Bernardini which also has a frescoed ceiling. Cartoleria Biagioni, at Number 156, is a wonderland for stationery lovers, a classic Italian store selling every type of pen, paper, paintbrush and notebook.

I always leave Lucca wanting more . . . more time to cycle the wall, more time to eat, more time to find hidden little alleyways, more time to just sit on top of the wall and watch the sun set.

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb