GELATO

I’m quite passionate about this topic and even though I touched on the five rules for choosing gelato in an earlier newsletter, this daily Italian habit is deserving of an entire newsletter!

Where else but Bologna would you find a university dedicated to churning out gelato maestros?

Born in 2003 with the goal to spread the culture of Italian artisan gelato throughout the world, Carpigiani Gelato University is today the largest international gelato school. The university has the biggest and most advanced gelato laboratory in the world where students learn how to make recipes with the most experienced gelato instructors and the best machines.

Every year more than 2000 people attend the course at the headquarters in Bologna, offered in several languages: Italian, English, French and Spanish. There are now twenty satellite campuses located around the world.

What’s the difference between ice cream and gelato?

To create authentic Italian gelato, artisans use much less fat in the mixture compared to ice cream and churn it at a lower speed so that less air gets in. This results in a denser texture and more intense flavours. Ice cream typically contains 14-25% butterfat compared to 4-9% in gelato. Gelato is also served at a slightly higher temperature than ice cream, allowing the flavours to shine through.

THE FIVE RULES

Containers

Flat metal containers with lids should be the first thing to get you excited. Lids keep the gelato at the right temperature. It’s also a good indication of not being a tourist hotspot because the gelateria is not trying to attract customers with bright colours and fancy, over the top decorations. Beware of a gelateria that looks like it’s trying too hard with fruit sticking out the top.

Colours

Good quality gelato doesn’t come in fluorescent colours which are created by adding food colouring. A true test is the popular pistacchio, which should never be a bright green, but very pale in colour. Berry colours should be deep, muted reds rather than shocking pink and lemon should be white, not yellow.

Height

Run away if you see mountain high tubs of gelato. It is high in vegetable fats and emulsifiers and is not being maintained at a correct temperature. Tourists are drawn in by a gelateria advertising 100 flavours, but that is way too many to be made fresh daily. I love to find a gelateria with minimal flavours on offer because I know they will be amazing!

Flavours

A good gelateria will offer fruit flavours that are in season. Whatever fruit is being sold at the local market stall is the flavour you want to choose. If the fruit is out of season, then it’s unlikely that fresh ingredients are being used. Also, you should be able to taste the little bits of fruit in the gelato.

Temperatures displayed on the wall

Without doubt this is a guarantee of superior gelato. Different flavours require different temperatures, so if the gelateria displays temperatures on the wall, you know you are in gelato heaven. Very close to the Pantheon there is a well known gelateria that boasts 100 flavours with rows of mountain high colourful gelato. Tourists flock there.

Tucked in behind the piazza in front of the Pantheon there used to be a very small gelateria that ticked all five boxes. Unfortunately, it was a victim of COVID and is no longer there, BUT it was always my go to place. Flat metal containers with lids on, no more than a dozen flavours, pale colours, temperatures displayed on the wall. Hardly any tourists, no queues, just locals. Pays to know.

Other red flags for poor quality gelato can be present even before entering such as fluorescent signage, a giant cone of gelato at the front of the gelateria, advertising multiple flavours, close to a tourist hotspot.

SIX OF THE BEST IN ROME

• Gelateria del Teatro, Via dei Coronari, 65 In 2006 Stefano Marcotulli opened Gelateria del Teatro, so named because the shop was just below a 13th century staircase leading up to a theatre (teatro means theatre). Located close to Piazza Navona, Via dei Coronari is one of my favourite streets to wander, made all the better by a great gelateria.

• Ciampini, Piazza San Lorenzo Founded by a family of gelato makers that go back to 1941, Ciampini never loses popularity.

• Il Gelato di San Crispino, Via della Panetteria, 42 Since opening in 1993, this gelateria has remained a favourite and gained even more fame by featuring in the move, Eat Pray Love.

• Grezzo, Via Urbana, 130 Located in the cool neighbourhood of Monti, this is a hotspot for Roman vegans. It has 100% raw and 100% plant based ingredients. You have to try the raw chocolate and hazelnut flavour!

• Otaleg, Via di S. Cosimato A strange, but clever name which spells gelato backwards. You’ll find this gelateria in the hip neighbourhood of Trastevere. The prestigious food critics from Gambero Rosso rate Otaleg at the top of their go to gelaterie. Not to be missed is the pistacchio which is a blend of three different varieties of the nut.

• Come il Latte, Via Silvio Spaventa, 24 Small quantities made daily with fantastic flavours, this is one of my favourites. And they have lids!

How to order

Vorrei - I would like . . .
una coppa, a cup
un cono, a cone
piccolo (small), medio (medium), grande (large)

Remember, it’s not the Italian way to walk and eat, but there is one exception - GELATO!

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb