Castel Sant’Angelo
It’s true. There is never enough time to discover Rome. Once we’ve walked my favourite streets and hidden pockets; lunched in the Jewish Ghetto; shopped in Monti and immersed ourselves in Trastevere, it’s time to leave.
However, cross the ancient Ponte Sant’Angelo, built in the 2nd century, turn left and you will discover the 22nd and final rione of Rome’s historic neighbourhoods.
This is elegant Prati, located a little northeast of the Vatican and bordering the west bank of the Tiber. It may be the year of the Jubilee with St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel getting all the attention, but visitors are missing out on wide boulevards and manicured green spaces in what is widely considered to be Rome’s chicest neighbourhood.
Away from the iconic landmarks and ancient ruins, Prati has more of a residents only vibe with a noticeable lack of tourists crowding the streets. There are independent boutiques that still specialise in expertly tailored fashions, noisy trattorias that focus on age-old recipes, very cool bars and beautiful villas. The main shopping street is Via Cola di Rienzo.
Best place for coffee in Prati
I will walk to Prati, just to have coffee at Sciascia Caffe, established in 1919. The founder, Adolfo Sciascia, spent fifty years perfecting the coffee blend which to this day remains a secret. The caffe is one of the oldest and most famous bars in Rome, having been in Prati for more than 100 years and in its present location since 1937. If you make your way to the back, there is a cosy bar where they also serve delicious pastries.
Eating your way around Prati
Pasticceria Parenti - Run by the Parenti family since its opening in 1960, this no-frills pasticceria is the neighbourhood spot for pasticcini: all the traditional sweets you expect in Rome, from maritozzi to cornetti to zeppole. There are no tables, but the best way is always to stand at the bar, the Italian way.
Panificio Mare Prati - This is the place for street food alla Romana. The small family run bakery, established in 1987 by Fabio Mare and now run by his son, Daniele, is renowned for its commitment to natural leavening and high-quality ingredients. Try the crunchy suppli and pizza alla pala, made with 24 hour fermented dough.
Panificio Bonci - This cult favourite bakery from Chef’s Table star, Gabriele Bonci, is a mecca for naturally leavened breads, pastries and pizza al taglio made with heritage grains and inventive toppings.
Classic Roman dining
Trattoria Cacio e Pepe and the 113 year old Il Matriciano are both local favourites. You won’t be able to resist one of the four main Roman pasta dishes: cacio e pepe, carbonara, grigia and amatriciana. They’re all rich and they’re all delicious. Casadora is also amazing for pasta with a constantly changing menu. One day it could be tortellini atop a Parmigiano Reggiano fondue drizzled with fennel-spiked bread crumbs for crunch, another day a plate of grilled butterflied sardines paired with sauteed veggies.
Amongst the locals
Castroni - This cafe and bottega, open since 1932, is a treasure trove of just about everything - coffees and teas, spices and oils, wines, sweets, hard-to-find international ingredients. Great for a gift or caffe con panna at the counter. I’ve stood in here for a long time, in awe of everything displayed on the shelves.
Mercato Trionfale - Considered to be the first Roman market, this mercato has 273 stalls, making it one of the biggest in Europe. Tucked just behind the Vatican walls, it’s a little chaotic, but it’s where locals come for crates of seasonal produce, fresh eggs, porchetta, fish still packed in ice and a quick espresso.
Aperitivo in Prati
Il Baretto di 40 - This tiny bar is tucked into a bright yellow building and is favoured by locals. You come here for simple cocktails and natural wines that showcase small Italian producers, plus to eavesdrop on the gossip of the week.
Enofficina - A charming, casual wine bar perfect for a glass of something Italian paired with one of their tagliere platters. They also have craft beers and atisanal spirits on offer, complemented by a menu of seasonal small plates and a daily-changing dinner menu that can easily turn aperitivo into a full evening affair.
Not forgetting Castel Sant’Angelo
Built in the 2nd century AD as Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, Castel Sant’Angelo has lived many lives - imperial tomb, fortress, papal residence, prison, military barracks. Its name comes from the Archangel Michele, said to have appeared atop the tower in 590 AD to end a plague. Linked to the Vatican by the secret 800 metre long Passetto di Borgo, it became a papal escape route in times of siege.
Today, Castel Sant’Angelo is a museum that tells the story of its history.
When next in Rome, you could happily spend a day eating your way around Prati as you take the time to explore the 22nd rione.
Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.
Deb