The Aeolian Islands are not a spontaneous visit. It takes planning and deliberate effort, but once there you are a world away and can’t imagine being anywhere else. Named after Aeolus, the Greek God of Winds, this archipelago of seven volcanic islands lies of the north coast of Sicily in the Tyrrhenian sea, an hour’s ferry ride from the Sicilian port town of Milazzo.

The islands became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 due to their particular volcanic properties.

In the 1870s and 1880s, the economy of the Aeolian Islands was in good shape. A flourishing merchant fleet sailing out of Lipari carried merchandise between Sicily and Naples. The pumice quarries were booming, but more important to the economy was wine making. This has been a constant for around 3,000 years, ever since settlers arrived and planted the first Malvasia vines.

Then the railway line was built between Reggio Calabria and Naples and the merchant fleet virtually became redundant. Next, the company that excavated and exported the pumice went bankrupt. And the third event (there’s always three) that made matters even worse was disaster struck the wine industry.

In 1878, the dreaded phylloxera insect arrived in Sicily. Wine producers on the islands were understandably worried. The parasites took twelve years before they crossed the Tyrrhenian sea and then the island’s economy crashed completely.

In 1891, over 200 inhabitants of Salina, the main wine producing island, left their homes. By 1914, it is estimated that one third of the overall population had emigrated. Most went to the United States, but many chose Australia.

At the end of the 1940s, the Australian Immigration Minister introduced an assisted immigration programme, which was a massive recruitment drive to find workers for enormous infrastructure projects and the agriculture sector. An agreement was signed with the Italian government, whereby the Australian government subsidised the cost of the sea passage. The Aeolian islanders jumped at the chance and in 1951 alone, 7,000 arrived in Australia.

Today, people are attracted to the islands for the therapeutic mud baths, ancient ruins, crystalline waters, lush vineyards, charming villages and hiking trails on ancient mule paths.

At 37 square kilometres, Lipari is the largest of the Aeolian Islands with almost 13,000 people. The island is well connected by a network of paved roads to the districts of Canneto, Acquacalda and Quattropani, best explored by circumnavigating the island on an e-bike.

The most impressive site as you arrive in the port is the imposing Castle which stands on a promontory inhabited since the Neolithic period. Here you will find the incredible Archaeological Museum, the most prestigious in the Mediterranean with fifty rooms showcasing finds from all over the Aeolian Islands. The collections are large and impressive, from amphorae salvaged from wrecks to high quality Greek vases. The museum is famous for its collection of Greek theatrical masks, mostly found in tombs on the island. Well worth a visit.

In the 1960s there were very few houses and no electricity on the smallest of the Aeolian Islands that has an area of just 3.4 square kilometres. Then an architect from Milan called Paolo Tilche opened a hotel. He’d travelled the world and had a lot of international friends, so people started coming by word of mouth, stopping at Panarea on their boat trips. There were only four rooms at Hotel Raya back then. It is the oldest and most iconic place on the island. Raya is Panarea and Panarea is Raya!

Today it is a playground for the rich and famous who arrive on their super yachts in the summer. Its small island charm, whitewashed buildings with vibrant blue doors, cascading bougainvillea and colourful gardens make it a photographer’s dream.

There are scenes from Christopher Nolan’s movie, “The Odyssey”, due for release in July 2026 starring Matt Damon, that were filmed on Panarea last year.

It was the first island to emerge, 600,000 years ago, from the depths of the Tyrrhenian Sea and is one of the smallest of the seven islands with around 200 inhabitants. What we see today is the summit of a volcano that is submerged 1,600 metres below the sea.

There is a book called ‘La Cucina Delle Donne’ written by Giusi Murabito, who was born at the foot of Mount Etna in Sicily. Giusi has a great love and passion for the Aeolian Islands and moved to Filicudi ten years ago. The idea behind the book was to capture the true custodians of the island so she approached its women to share a recipe with her. Twenty women invited Giusi into their kitchens, but it became far more than a book of recipes. Every dish carried stories of departure and return, of scarcity and longing, of solitude and community. These were stories that explained the island’s identity better than anything else.

The most dramatic island with around 400 brave locals is Stromboli with its active volcano. Known as the ancient lighthouse of the mediterranean, it has been erupting its mesmerising glow for over 2,000 years. Lava spurts are sometimes visible throughout the day, but are more spectacular once darkness falls and the red hot debris shoot from the crater and roll down into the water.

This island is the second most populated with around 2,300 people. It is the greenest island in the group, covered with lush foliage, green hills, verdant vineyards and pristine beaches. Its volcanic origin has blessed it with fertile soil perfect to grow grapes for the world famous Malvasia wine. It is a dessert wine that is golden, aromatic and kissed by the sun. The grapes are dried on straw mats before pressing.

Salina’s capers are also famous across Italy. They are plump, fragrant and have been awarded the certification, DOP - Protected Designation of Origin, which means they can only come from Salina.

Vulcano takes its name from Vulcan, the Roman God of Fire, the blacksmith and warrior. The island’s name is also the origin of the European word, ‘volcano’ .

This is the closest island to the mainland of Sicily, taking around 50 minutes on the ferry from Milazzo. Vulcano is renowned for its thermal springs, hot mud baths and fumaroles.

The most remote of the Aeolian Islands, Alicudi is the least inhabited island that is 3 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide. Less than 100 people live here together with a dozen donkeys, goats, sheep and lots of cats. You go here for the solitude and to reconnect with nature.

The extinct volcano has an almost mystical atmosphere where time seems to stand still. There are no paved roads or cars, just donkeys to transport goods.

There are many places in Italy I believe people should experience at least once in a lifetime which include Matera, Venice and the Dolomites. The Aeolian Islands are also on my list for their remoteness, unspoilt beauty and the feelings they evoke of a life of simple pleasures, being still and connecting with nature in the middle of the Tyrrhenian sea.

There are two Sicily/Aeolian Islands tours this year in May and October, the perfect holiday for travellers wanting an adventure like no other.

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb