The welcome sign at the edge of the old town - “I love Marzamemi”.

Ten years on from my first trip to Sicily, I still can’t get enough!

MARZAMEMI - the name alone is enticing. I want to tell you about this tiny seaside village, tucked into the deep southeast corner of Sicily, just a few kilometres from Italy’s southernmost point, with a population of 367!

The name is derived from the Arabic al-Marsa-hamem, which means “bay of turtledoves”, the last frontier of the island on the tip of Sicily which began as an Arab village. Here you will find the essence of Sicilian coastal charm in the old centre which dates back to the mid 18th century. There are colourful fishermen’s houses, an historic tonnara, aristocratic palazzo and the stunning Piazza Regina Margherita, not to mention the salty scent of the sparkling Ionian sea mingling with fresh seafood.

Piazza Regina Margherita

The simple Church of San Francesco di Paola, to whom the whole town is devoted, includes a bell tower in the main piazza. For centuries in the church, women prayed to the saint for their loved ones to come back from their fishing trips. The devotion to the saint is still felt, as every year on 2nd April, the day of the patron saint, the whole village joins in a procession.

The village dates back to the 10th century, when it was a bustling tuna processing hub. Today, Marzamemi continues to be known as the tuna capital of Sicily. There are two historic family owned tuna businesses that specialise in processing fresh tuna and preserving it in jars and tins. Adelfio bluefin tuna, caught in the Mediterranean waters, represents the pinnacle of Sicilian tradition. Handcrafted in Marzamemi using methods passed down through generations, it retains an intense flavour and firm texture. As you wander the warehouse filled with so much temptation, it is difficult to resist filling a shopping basket with enough picnic food for a week!

In the 1700s, Marzamemi was the residence of the princes of Villadorata, who bought the tuna factory in 1630 and enlarged it. They then built the fishermen’s houses, the church and the family residence. Next to the Tonnara stands the Palace of the Prince of Villadorata built in sandstone and overlooking the colourful Piazza Regina Margherita. The baroque building dates back to 1725 and on the facade you can admire stone gutters and the Villadorata coat of arms on the portal. Inside the palace are the remains of the only village oven, where villagers went to bake their bread and other products every morning.

Tonnara di Marzamemi, a thriving centre of activity in the 18th century, closed in 1969, but the building remains today as a fascinating relic of the past. Restored and repurposed, the old tuna factory now hosts cultural events, exhibitions and a small museum that tells the story of this once vital industry.

A fishing village that transforms into a cinema under the stars

Hard to imagine, but tiny Marzamemi hosts an International Film Festival called Marzamemi CineFest. The movies are projected onto the historic walls of buildings in Piazza Regina Margherita. Just think, an open air cinema held in an ancient tuna processing village by the sea. How romantic, how Sicilian.

The most delicious tomato

Just five minutes from Marzamemi is the village of Pachino, home of the legendary tomato, il pomodoro! Known to cooks and food lovers all over Italy, the Pachino tomato is the cherry tomato in Italy. It packs a punch with an intense flavour and is loved for its savoury, almost salty taste, its intense sweetness and its vine-fresh aroma. A tomato that tastes like a tomato!

Pachino tomatoes have their own IGP (Protected Geographic Identity) status and a consortium of growers commit to growing only certain Pachino varieties, within a confined geography, using specific agricultural techniques. These tomatoes are the equivalent of a truly special wine or cheese; an expression of a unique terroir and farming tradition.

Pachino tomatoes are, without question, the pride of Sicily.

Lunch date in Marzamemi

We are in tuna/anchovy/swordfish heaven lunching by the sea in Marzamemi. The Ciao Italy Sicily Tour takes us there on 24th May and 22nd of October. Can’t wait!

Next week I will be writing to you from Italy as I arrive in Rome on Friday. In fact, the next three months will be stories written whilst on tour throughout Italy to give you an up close and personal look at what happens on a Ciao Italy tour. Perhaps edited a little!

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb

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